Are the boots worth the polish?
On my way away from the temple I grab an icecream in a cone. As I approach the station I notice this bundle in the corner, actually it is a person, a woman. she has created her buisness premises consisting of 3 sides of cardboard sheets inside which she is sitting with various shoe_shine implements. My initial desire was to photograph her, but she is so small and shrivelled that I dont have the heart and later also notice there is a No Photograph sign behind her. I am not going to give her money, if she has gone through the trouble of setting up her store for god knows how many years (or decades, i could well imagine her having been there as a little girl) I will give her some business. so I approach her with by now tatty looking boots whose top "leather" layer has worn off in place follwing time in clay walks of Ugandan hills. She is so shrivelled and her back so crooked that she is sort of up to my knee caps!, and is busy scribbling on a bit of paper, love to know what, may be she is calculating her entire fortune, who knows she probably owns a fair portion of the national stock exchange. (I will tell you about a similar woman I met in UK once)
Any way she begins to attend to my boots while mumbling throughout the episode, I imagine she is pretty disgusted being given such a poor task as my damaged boots, she occasionally uses the sharp end of a tooth brush handle to prize out little pebbles still stock to the top of my boots. She kind of polishes the boots while I am feeding bits of ice cream cone to another crippled creature, a one legged pigeion. I am flush with my good fortune being announced by the deity so I am sharing it out the best that I can. The sho polish sets me back 500 yen, and woth every minute of her attention using her crippled, boney, hardly mobile, boot polish stained little fingers.
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Permission from above
Permission from above
I head for Ueno where my hotel is and having stashed my main pack in a locker (couldnt find one at the main station otherwise would have stayed and visited the Imperial Palace grounds before going to Ueno, the palace is only open to visitors twice a year, yesterday as the Emperors Birthday and 2nd of January)
I go and visit Asakusa (Sansoji) Temple, very impressive place, I request access to the main hall for prayer, I am refused "members only", I pop round the side and take a look and there is a notice for tourists saying there is special ceremony. I go round the other building and return later, I am still interested, so may be there is signal from above to visit. I go by the entrance next to the kiosk manned by the chap who refused my. meanwhile he gets a call (from above?) and his bhack is turned, I slip off the boots and head for the reas sanctum where the statue of Bodhisatva Kanon is kept, at the same time he heads towards a back office and his route is across from mine but he is otherwise occupied. I go to the rear prayer area where another woman is in devotional state, pay my respects, stay a few minutes and make my exit. Pretty happy with myself I also try out one of their fortune telling devices where you shake this box of sticks and pull one out of a hole in the box, this gives you a number, there are hundreds of boxes with nubers on them in front of you and you take out a piece of paper from the relevent box based on the number you got. Mine happens to be Good Fortune, basically all my trouble over! Yippee.
I head for Ueno where my hotel is and having stashed my main pack in a locker (couldnt find one at the main station otherwise would have stayed and visited the Imperial Palace grounds before going to Ueno, the palace is only open to visitors twice a year, yesterday as the Emperors Birthday and 2nd of January)
I go and visit Asakusa (Sansoji) Temple, very impressive place, I request access to the main hall for prayer, I am refused "members only", I pop round the side and take a look and there is a notice for tourists saying there is special ceremony. I go round the other building and return later, I am still interested, so may be there is signal from above to visit. I go by the entrance next to the kiosk manned by the chap who refused my. meanwhile he gets a call (from above?) and his bhack is turned, I slip off the boots and head for the reas sanctum where the statue of Bodhisatva Kanon is kept, at the same time he heads towards a back office and his route is across from mine but he is otherwise occupied. I go to the rear prayer area where another woman is in devotional state, pay my respects, stay a few minutes and make my exit. Pretty happy with myself I also try out one of their fortune telling devices where you shake this box of sticks and pull one out of a hole in the box, this gives you a number, there are hundreds of boxes with nubers on them in front of you and you take out a piece of paper from the relevent box based on the number you got. Mine happens to be Good Fortune, basically all my trouble over! Yippee.
Kyoto to Tokyo
Kyoto to Tokyo
No airports at Kyoto so ended up paying 12700 yen ($150) for a 2.5 hour train ride (compared to 2000 yen from Osaka airport to Kyoto) . Really rough night dont think I slept at all despite trying every trick in the book. Was snacking on peanuts and wasabi flavoured crackers about 3 a.m. Zombie state which could have been due to having couple of coffees about 6 p.m, this rarely effects me but maybe combined with thoughts of travel it did not help.
Breakfast at Kyoto railway station, something akin to McDonalds egg McMuffin, the stools didnt have full back rest so you wont stay too long, Saxophone Jazz blaring out at 8 a.m. made sure I left soon as I could too.
Grey suits throughout the train, but then I am in my travelling greys, I even have two shaded grey backpack and rainjacket! I sit next to this guy who is sleep then I notice he is wearing navy V_necl and a black leather jacket with brown piping hanging on a hook, what a rebel! Later I move to the next compartment though, my nerves are a little shot from lack of sleep and cant handle the clicking of keyboard behind me. Chances of sleep are nil though so I write a few things down. Grey suits get on and off at couple of stations intervening, or may be they just change seats, I wont notice who is who anyway, Matrix is here. I have always wondered though why people commute, after all the people who go to Tokyo to work could stay where they are and do the work the people from Tokyo come to do in their town instead, save lots of time and money, but hen who would pay for JR (Japanese Rail).
Announcements on the train peceeded by a jingle which has initial notes similar to God Save the Queen anthem, confusing as the final couple of notes break the rythm. The final jingle announcing Tokyo is completely different though.
No airports at Kyoto so ended up paying 12700 yen ($150) for a 2.5 hour train ride (compared to 2000 yen from Osaka airport to Kyoto) . Really rough night dont think I slept at all despite trying every trick in the book. Was snacking on peanuts and wasabi flavoured crackers about 3 a.m. Zombie state which could have been due to having couple of coffees about 6 p.m, this rarely effects me but maybe combined with thoughts of travel it did not help.
Breakfast at Kyoto railway station, something akin to McDonalds egg McMuffin, the stools didnt have full back rest so you wont stay too long, Saxophone Jazz blaring out at 8 a.m. made sure I left soon as I could too.
Grey suits throughout the train, but then I am in my travelling greys, I even have two shaded grey backpack and rainjacket! I sit next to this guy who is sleep then I notice he is wearing navy V_necl and a black leather jacket with brown piping hanging on a hook, what a rebel! Later I move to the next compartment though, my nerves are a little shot from lack of sleep and cant handle the clicking of keyboard behind me. Chances of sleep are nil though so I write a few things down. Grey suits get on and off at couple of stations intervening, or may be they just change seats, I wont notice who is who anyway, Matrix is here. I have always wondered though why people commute, after all the people who go to Tokyo to work could stay where they are and do the work the people from Tokyo come to do in their town instead, save lots of time and money, but hen who would pay for JR (Japanese Rail).
Announcements on the train peceeded by a jingle which has initial notes similar to God Save the Queen anthem, confusing as the final couple of notes break the rythm. The final jingle announcing Tokyo is completely different though.
I get my fix on my way to Kyoto
21/12
today is 23/12 I am in Kyoto trying to type these on a Japanese keyboard, not easy because if I touch a key accidentally keyboard, the characters chane or sentences are duplicated! Istanbulshowerr and shave, slept very well. did some exercise using spare blanket as floor cover. The radiator (ther was one as floor cover. The radiator (ther was one!) floor cover. The radiator (ther was one!) had dried my clothes from the night before. had washed both my jeans in Uganda but both look dirty, hard to get the clay out of textile.
Have chai and tost at a teashop while groups of men arriving at a nearby meeting hall all greeting one another (some touch the two corners of forehead to one anothers, hadnt seen that before), some kind of a political party? Try to find a tourist info, THREE hours later still walking, ankle sore, get couple of hours of tram ride to get some rest as well as see the city. Port very busy with fishermen, travellers, boats doing Bosphorus trips or going over to the Asia side of Istanbul. BNosphorus tour sounds interesting but I need 3 hours and cant risk it. so I go to the Asian and cant risk it. so I go to the Asian side, all I see is pople, shops and more of the same again and agin, Boring! Retrun to the Europe side and find a self-service food place, not bad. ask the guy about shishe, he makes a joke whether I want a beer shishe etc, luckily some guy in the queue helps and I am directed to a place offering Nargila (turkish shishe), 20 minutes later and I find the place and sit outside this cafe under covers as the rain begins to pour, good timing. Inside dozens of men are glued to TV watching football and changes of emotion are funny to watch from outside, this also means I dont get the service I hoped for when i want my second cup of tea but i order when the nice man comes to renew the red hot coals on my shishe. meanwhile it is pouring with rain and i have had to change seats to get out of the rain. it is rather chilly now but i am not giving in, rest of the locals have retreated indoors or left altogether. the smoke from the Orange flavoured tobacco combined with steam due to cold weather is pretty impressive. I leave about 8.45 and have missed the worst of the rain, wanted to get some shampoo but dont fancy carrying 300 ml bottle so forget it. Got charged 24 LTR ($16) for left luggage even though the other guy said 12 but i am over the 24 hour limit AND the man is giving himself a heart attack justifying the charge. During the day gotr stopped by teh police, i looked a right hobo with my plastic bag containing sleeping bag tied to my daypack, they let me go once they realised i was a tourist.funny one* the youngster at the passport control starts rubbing vigorously on my passport photo and generally manhandling the pages of my passport, and calls over his supervisor to confirm it is genuine!
AirportWhile at waitingarea the Japanese chap near me keeps thumping his calf mucles with his fist, It is annoying as it also shakes the bench he is sharing with me, may be I could help him out by thumping him myslef? then I notice there are similar behaviours going on by others too, a fair number are also wearing face masks. Turkish airlines tend to dish out these small bags of stuff every flight (different ones each time I think, socks, tooth brush and past, sleep mask,) feels such a bloody waste of stuff. very cute hostess with whom I flirt throughout the flight good fun. Ling flight but I do manage to sleep a fair bit, they serve food for what would be normat time of 1 a.m and then about 9 a.m which confuses the system. I manage to open the loo door on and a scream rises from the Japanese lady on tthe toilet! no eye contact when she comes out eventually, I was going to make appologetic noises. I notice she is not the only one not locking the door behind her/them! Almost forgot, they are quite strict on fluids taken into boarding area so one Japanese lady is most disapointed when her 2 cans of turkish beer is confiscated from her hand luggage, they offer for her to drink then which she does not and they are poured away, no ideas what Efes beer tastes like but dont want to drink while flying either. Chattingto Toshiko my travel companion i decide to go straight to Kyoto instead of overnight stay at Osaka which even from my brief search of travel catalogues is hardly mentioned anywhere. Her taxi is full so I make my own way by train, as a visitor my ticket is cheaper than normal, nice trains, as i wait for the train to be cleaned before boarding, the seats swivel electrically to face all the same way! Oh, the Japanese seem to like having lots of people doing same job; or one person doing the work while 5 others administer or supervise, it took 5 FIVE people to change my money, I was lucky if i wasnt filling the forms (yes you do fill forms and one form per currency) there would probably have been 6 or more! It was a good idea to go to Kyoto, so much to see, saw much less than i hoped as i am trying to recover from a 17 hour trip. Problems - language; very little is written in English and very little spoken toogood point; you ask directions and they are liable to come with you all the way: day one on arrival while trying to locate my hotel (probably the cheapest in town at 4200 ¥ about 30 pounds sterling) i stop and ask these people about to enter a bar after their work, about 9.30 p.m, they phone around and get the number for the hotel, get directions and then two girls actually walk and hand me in at the reception of the hotel. Day 2 I ask for directions to an internet cafe, agian two young men ask around and point me in the direction (just across the road embarrasingly), Day 3 I am looking for a temple and as i am looking at a map another cyclist (I hired a cycle last night for 24 houirs, great way to get round Kyoto on pavements, it is also power assisted which is handy on the hills, I am becoming more and more dependent on mechanical transportation as I am rather tired or just have to face the old age! realities of not being to walk 10 hours a day) asks if i need help (i aassume that is what she is saying) and then proceeds to follow my on her bicycle for about two miles (I am not sure if she had planned on going that direction since it is the other corner of Kyoto from Kiyomizodera temple i had just left. I am aware of it getting late both for the temple opening hours and also for returning the bicyle but by now dont have the heart to turn around!eventually i am delivered to the gate of the temple and the woman (by the way even though you dont understand a word they will still continue explaining in Japanese anyway) leaves, I pay my respects from the gate, get on my bicycle and find a nice little route alongside a little stream to get back into town to return the bicycle.My heart warmed by kind gestures of these people who literally go out of their way, set aside what they are doing to get you what you want, I can relate to that, not sure whether this is a cultural/religeous trait but I am grateful regardless. At the railway station when I arrived at Kyoto, i notice these machines with food pictures on, you stick some money in press the botton and get a receipt then when I walk into the place I hand it in to the guy behind the counter and a few minutes later my food appears, unfortunately it tastes and looks too much like spaghetti bolognese! the place is very small, barely one meter space between the counter and the wall, men lined up with their bowls of food with work clothes, lots of slurping going on as no spoons are handed out even with what looks like soup so you drink from the bowl.
today is 23/12 I am in Kyoto trying to type these on a Japanese keyboard, not easy because if I touch a key accidentally keyboard, the characters chane or sentences are duplicated! Istanbulshowerr and shave, slept very well. did some exercise using spare blanket as floor cover. The radiator (ther was one as floor cover. The radiator (ther was one!) floor cover. The radiator (ther was one!) had dried my clothes from the night before. had washed both my jeans in Uganda but both look dirty, hard to get the clay out of textile.
Have chai and tost at a teashop while groups of men arriving at a nearby meeting hall all greeting one another (some touch the two corners of forehead to one anothers, hadnt seen that before), some kind of a political party? Try to find a tourist info, THREE hours later still walking, ankle sore, get couple of hours of tram ride to get some rest as well as see the city. Port very busy with fishermen, travellers, boats doing Bosphorus trips or going over to the Asia side of Istanbul. BNosphorus tour sounds interesting but I need 3 hours and cant risk it. so I go to the Asian and cant risk it. so I go to the Asian side, all I see is pople, shops and more of the same again and agin, Boring! Retrun to the Europe side and find a self-service food place, not bad. ask the guy about shishe, he makes a joke whether I want a beer shishe etc, luckily some guy in the queue helps and I am directed to a place offering Nargila (turkish shishe), 20 minutes later and I find the place and sit outside this cafe under covers as the rain begins to pour, good timing. Inside dozens of men are glued to TV watching football and changes of emotion are funny to watch from outside, this also means I dont get the service I hoped for when i want my second cup of tea but i order when the nice man comes to renew the red hot coals on my shishe. meanwhile it is pouring with rain and i have had to change seats to get out of the rain. it is rather chilly now but i am not giving in, rest of the locals have retreated indoors or left altogether. the smoke from the Orange flavoured tobacco combined with steam due to cold weather is pretty impressive. I leave about 8.45 and have missed the worst of the rain, wanted to get some shampoo but dont fancy carrying 300 ml bottle so forget it. Got charged 24 LTR ($16) for left luggage even though the other guy said 12 but i am over the 24 hour limit AND the man is giving himself a heart attack justifying the charge. During the day gotr stopped by teh police, i looked a right hobo with my plastic bag containing sleeping bag tied to my daypack, they let me go once they realised i was a tourist.funny one* the youngster at the passport control starts rubbing vigorously on my passport photo and generally manhandling the pages of my passport, and calls over his supervisor to confirm it is genuine!
AirportWhile at waitingarea the Japanese chap near me keeps thumping his calf mucles with his fist, It is annoying as it also shakes the bench he is sharing with me, may be I could help him out by thumping him myslef? then I notice there are similar behaviours going on by others too, a fair number are also wearing face masks. Turkish airlines tend to dish out these small bags of stuff every flight (different ones each time I think, socks, tooth brush and past, sleep mask,) feels such a bloody waste of stuff. very cute hostess with whom I flirt throughout the flight good fun. Ling flight but I do manage to sleep a fair bit, they serve food for what would be normat time of 1 a.m and then about 9 a.m which confuses the system. I manage to open the loo door on and a scream rises from the Japanese lady on tthe toilet! no eye contact when she comes out eventually, I was going to make appologetic noises. I notice she is not the only one not locking the door behind her/them! Almost forgot, they are quite strict on fluids taken into boarding area so one Japanese lady is most disapointed when her 2 cans of turkish beer is confiscated from her hand luggage, they offer for her to drink then which she does not and they are poured away, no ideas what Efes beer tastes like but dont want to drink while flying either. Chattingto Toshiko my travel companion i decide to go straight to Kyoto instead of overnight stay at Osaka which even from my brief search of travel catalogues is hardly mentioned anywhere. Her taxi is full so I make my own way by train, as a visitor my ticket is cheaper than normal, nice trains, as i wait for the train to be cleaned before boarding, the seats swivel electrically to face all the same way! Oh, the Japanese seem to like having lots of people doing same job; or one person doing the work while 5 others administer or supervise, it took 5 FIVE people to change my money, I was lucky if i wasnt filling the forms (yes you do fill forms and one form per currency) there would probably have been 6 or more! It was a good idea to go to Kyoto, so much to see, saw much less than i hoped as i am trying to recover from a 17 hour trip. Problems - language; very little is written in English and very little spoken toogood point; you ask directions and they are liable to come with you all the way: day one on arrival while trying to locate my hotel (probably the cheapest in town at 4200 ¥ about 30 pounds sterling) i stop and ask these people about to enter a bar after their work, about 9.30 p.m, they phone around and get the number for the hotel, get directions and then two girls actually walk and hand me in at the reception of the hotel. Day 2 I ask for directions to an internet cafe, agian two young men ask around and point me in the direction (just across the road embarrasingly), Day 3 I am looking for a temple and as i am looking at a map another cyclist (I hired a cycle last night for 24 houirs, great way to get round Kyoto on pavements, it is also power assisted which is handy on the hills, I am becoming more and more dependent on mechanical transportation as I am rather tired or just have to face the old age! realities of not being to walk 10 hours a day) asks if i need help (i aassume that is what she is saying) and then proceeds to follow my on her bicycle for about two miles (I am not sure if she had planned on going that direction since it is the other corner of Kyoto from Kiyomizodera temple i had just left. I am aware of it getting late both for the temple opening hours and also for returning the bicyle but by now dont have the heart to turn around!eventually i am delivered to the gate of the temple and the woman (by the way even though you dont understand a word they will still continue explaining in Japanese anyway) leaves, I pay my respects from the gate, get on my bicycle and find a nice little route alongside a little stream to get back into town to return the bicycle.My heart warmed by kind gestures of these people who literally go out of their way, set aside what they are doing to get you what you want, I can relate to that, not sure whether this is a cultural/religeous trait but I am grateful regardless. At the railway station when I arrived at Kyoto, i notice these machines with food pictures on, you stick some money in press the botton and get a receipt then when I walk into the place I hand it in to the guy behind the counter and a few minutes later my food appears, unfortunately it tastes and looks too much like spaghetti bolognese! the place is very small, barely one meter space between the counter and the wall, men lined up with their bowls of food with work clothes, lots of slurping going on as no spoons are handed out even with what looks like soup so you drink from the bowl.
Monday, December 7, 2009
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